Tri-Stryke plus computer update

Just wanted to say that the new computer is doing great. I've been on a few rides with it now, and I haven't experienced any of the wireless interference issues I've read about on a few forums. I also haven't had to deal with some of the less attractive qualities of the Garmin GPS - ie, waiting for satellite link-up, losing the signal in the middle of a ride, or the wild variations in speed that it sometimes displays. I haven't missed any of those. All in all, so far, I think I made a good purchase - the computer seems quality. It's accurate, reliable and easy to use (once you figure it out).

But you may have noticed that "computer update" wasn't the only thing in the title. It's true - I got a new saddle - again. Now before you start to see my bike for what it really is (a money pit), let me just point out to you that using the aero-bars is less than comfortable on the Bontrager Inform R saddle. The reason? The Inform R is a road saddle, designed to support you on your sit-bones. When you're in the aero-position, however, the bulk of your weight is supported by the soft tissue between your legs which rests on the nose of the saddle - hence the need for a triathlon/time-trial specific saddle with extra padding in the nose. This all may sound a bit silly to you if you've never spent two hours on the aero-bars on a hard road saddle, but I can assure you that the discomfort involved in such an endeavor will quickly convince you that you're not as committed to saving money as you might have thought previously.

Having said that, if you've read my previous posts you'll know that I'm a deal hunter, and I did quite a bit of hunting for the best deal on this saddle. In the end, I got it brand new, in the color I wanted, for about $30 less than the average going price. Saving money always makes spending money a little bit easier for me, but I digress. I've only put about 20 miles on the bike with the new saddle, but the increase in comfort was immediately noticable when going aero. So it's off to the spare parts box for the Inform R for now, but I have a feeling it will be back on the bike at some point. Till next time.

Profile-Design Tri-Stryke Titanium

Bike before test ride with the new saddle. I angled the nose down a bit after the ride.

Jittery Joe's Computer

Jittery Joe's is a coffee company based in Athens, Georgia, which sponsors a professional cycling team. While I've never actually had their coffee (although I do have one of their mugs) I've seen their team in action more than once, and have spent some time on their website. The website (http://www.jitteryjoes.com/) just happens to have a store, and the store just happens to have a $60 Cateye Strada Wireless bike computer on sale for $24.99. Now, I've known about this deal for quite sometime - almost a year - but I've been using my Garmin Forerunner GPS in lieu of a computer since I got my bike. This has always worked fine (for the most part) but with the aerobars on my bike now, there really isn't a place for the Garmin. So I figured hey, what's thirty bucks - I mean otherwise I'm just out there with no idea how fast I'm going or how far I've traveled, and I can't ride that way! It's all about the numbers, right?! Anyway, the computer arrived today and although it's a different color than advertised on the website, it looks pretty cool. I haven't ridden with it yet so I can't tell you if it sucks or not. What I can do is put up a few pictures and tell you I'll get back to you on the computer's actual performance - deal?

Do It Yourself - Aerodynamics

Great article on a few simple steps you can take to make your ride more aero - it's by Bicycling Magazine's Joe Lindsey. I was going to just post the link, but web-articles have a habit of disappearing on me and I'd really like to be able to read this one again, so I'll post it here in it's entirety. Enjoy!

D.I.Y. Aero - by Joe Lindsey

On a flat road, as much as 95 percent of a rider's energy is used to overcome wind resistance, says Todd Carver, who runs Retul, a bike-fitting company in Boulder, Colorado. Just 20 percent of that drag comes from the bike - 80 percent of it is from you. At the same time, Scott Holz, an instructor for Specialized's BG Fit program, says that he sees more mis-fit triathletes than any other group of cyclists. Here's how to tweak your road bike for fit and efficiency.

1. Attach clip-on aerobars. Don't worry about the position at this point, you'll tweak it later.
2. Move the saddle forward and/or swap your seatpost. One of the most common conversion fit mistakes: slapping on aerobars but leaving the saddle where it is. If you're effectively moving the handlebar forward, you need to move your body too. Think of it as rotating yourself forward around the bottom bracket, like hands on a clock. Your elbows should be 2 to 3cm behind the rear edge of the aero-bar pads, with a roughly 110-degree angle at the elbow. For road bike fit, a plumb line dropped from the rider's forward knee (with crankarms level) should pass just in front of the pedal spindle. For ideal tri fit, you want your knee farther forward, 1 additional centimeter in front of the pedal spindle for every centimeter of height difference between the saddle and the aero pads. You may need a two-position post, depending on how much adjustment your seat rails offer.
3. Correct saddle height and angle. Moving a seat forward also effectively lowers it. You want about a 30-degree bend in your knee when the crankarms are perpendicular to the ground. (Note: This is a different measure than the one used for road bike fit.) A normal road position has a level seat, but for a multisport fit, you should rotate the saddle downward one degree for every centimeter of drop between the seat and the aero-bar pads, up to eight degrees. This will allow you to roll your hips forward and open up your hip angle for a more natural pedaling style.
4. Dial in your back angle. If the aero extensions are too high, move a steerer-tube spacer or two above the stem, or flip a positive-angle stem upside down, or both. Ideally, your back will be flat like Dave Zabriskie's, but spinal flexibility may limit you. If the bars are too low, consider a higher-rise stem.
5. Tweak your bars. The key here is to decrease frontal area as much as comfortably possible. Align the elbow pads so your elbows sit directly in line with your hands. It's fine to create a wider "stance" on the bar by increasing the distance between the extensions; just keep your forearms pointing straight, not angled inward, which increases drag.

If, after some break-in time, you can't stay in your tuck over the distance of your goal race (cornering, climbing and tricky descents excluded,) then your position is too aggressive, says Specialized's Holz. For sprint tris or time trials that last less than an hour, your position should be as aggressive as you can tolerate. For Olympic-distance events or a 40-kilometer time trial, increase your torso angle five degrees. For a half-Ironman, add five to 10 degrees, and for a full Ironman, 10 or more degrees.

When in doubt, choose comfort over aerodynamics. You'll go faster in a less aerodynamic position if you can reliably produce lots of power over a longer period of time. That said, with any aero position you will probably give up some amount of power compared with your road position, but that's okay. "Cyclists are macho and like to focus on power," says University of Utah researcher Jim Martin, who consults on aerodynamic efficiency with the Australian Institute of Sport. "If you give up a few percentage points in power output, but gain that same amount in aerodynamic efficiency, you'll still go faster."

This article can be found in its original location at http://www.bicycling.com/article/0,6610,s1-1-4-17600-1,00.html

Awesome cycling quote I found on the web...

"To be a cyclist is to be a student of pain. At cycling's core lies pain, hard and bitter as the pit inside a juicy peach. It doesn't matter if you're sprinting for an Olympic medal, a town sign, a trailhead, or the rest stop with the homemade brownies. If you've never confronted pain, you're missing the essence of the sport. Without pain, there's no adversity. Without adversity, no challenge. Without challenge, no improvement. No improvement, no sense of accomplishment and no deep-down joy. Might as well be playing Tiddly-Winks." - Scott Martin

A Dirty Chain Comes Clean

Bike chains get filthy - there's no way around it. Mine, however, has gone way beyond filthy into something I can't describe. So, with a little more of that tax refund money, I decided a chain bath would be a sound investment and, man, I couldn't have been more right. I picked up a Park Tool "Chain Gang" cleaning system this afternoon, and went to work on my chain sometime later. Again, lacking a maintenance stand (why haven't I bought one of those yet?) this job was kind of a pain. Trying to keep the bike from falling over, turning the cranks, and holding the chain bath in place all at once requires more hands than I have, but I got it done... eventually. The Park Tool Chain Gang did a heck of a job - that citrus cleaner isn't playing around - it made my chain sparkly clean. It also made a huge mess of everything other than my chain. Seriously - if you use one of these, follow the directions and lay down some newspaper or cardboard, because it's going to get ugly. The derailleurs, cranks, chain-rings, frame and (worst of all) my hands, were an absolute mess - but it got the job done. One filthy rag and ten minutes later, the bike was clean again. Anyway, long story short, the Chain Gang is a small investment that I think will pay dividends later in terms of lengthened component life. And in case you're wondering, no - I didn't get it on sale, and yes, that is a hard pill to swallow. I'll post some before and after photos below - hopefully they'll be large enough for you to see the significant difference between a dirty chain and a clean chain.

Dirty

and Clean

Aerobars

Well, "wanting" those aerobars didn't last too long (I love tax refunds.) On Saturday, Amber and I went down to All 3 Sports - a local triathlon shop to pick up my aerobars. Needless to say, I had done my research (probably more than was neccessary, but hey, that's just me.) I'd decided to go with the Profile Design T1+Viper Carbon Fiber aerobars and, true to form, I got them on sale. After a few more shopping stops along our way, Amber and I set to installing the new bars at home. Thanks to her incredible help, the process was actually pretty smooth - I only almost blew my top once or twice... maybe three times. Had she not been there, however, I would have been a little screwed without a maintenance stand - I'm really beginning to appreciate how valuable one of those would be. Anyway, here's a picture of the handlebars pre and post installation. And after...

Thus, with the bars installed and adjusted to fit me, it was time for a quick spin before we headed out to dinner. I haven't done any serious mileage with the aerobars yet, but I'm sure they'll more than pay for themselves - both in comfort added, and wind resistance reduced. I taped up the ends of the bars using some Profile Design camo(ish) tape, which I think looks pretty cool. Here's my girl Dixie with the finished product - enjoy!

2007 Trek 1000

I got my first "real" road bike in the Spring of '08 - it's a 2007 Trek 1000 SL. Here's me with the bike the day I brought it home from the Bike Shop.

Man, I was so excited - I felt like a kid with a new, well, bike! I couldn't stop thinking about how happy I was with the way the bike was set-up, and how much fun it was to ride. True to the norm, however, it only took about a week for the "tinkering" urge to kick in, and I realized I wanted to make some changes. First, the reflectors had to go. I only ride during daylight, so I felt they were unneccessary. And they do two things I don't like - add weight, and make me look like a dork! Next, I wanted to get some clipless pedals, so I picked up some Shimano 105s on sale from a local store. More recently, I've flipped the stem for a more aerodynamic position on the bike, and installed a new saddle - a Bontrager Inform R. Here's a recent picture of my buddy Riley with the bike - needless to say, it's changed a bit.

Next, I'd really like to add some clip-on aerobars and, eventually, get some new wheels. But for now, my Trek 1000 rides great, and I've really enjoyed the heck out of owning it. Hopefully there will be more to talk about soon - I'm really jonesing for those aerobars!!